Car Auction Tips for First Timer

A question about : Car Auction Tips for First Timer

Looking to try and get a bargain at a car auction.

I went to one a couple weeks back just to observe. I am Looking to get my Mrs a decent first car, for her and the baby to be mobile.

Any tips or advice before purchasing a car there?

Obvious stuff I have thought of are to try examine the car condition. Look out for any trace of accident on the car (cat d or c, etc). Anything else??
Do they tell you how the car got to auction? ie. repo?

Any tips or hints to be abreast of, will be much appreciated guys.

Best answers:

• Find out how much the buyers fees and other costs are before bidding as you may end up saving very little over buying privately.
• Don't !
  You'll be better off looking on autotrader , at auction you can't test drive, all you can do is watch start up, maybe get a quick sit inside.
  At a private / trade sale you'll be able to test drive, have a good look , haggle on price etc.
  Auctions are not a good place for a "novice"
• As others have said, auctions are not for novices or the faint-hearted!
  My brother and his mechanic mate used to pick up cheap cars at the auctions, just bangers really, they would work on them and run them into the ground or sell them on for a few quid more to mates etc.
  If you're looking for a "safe" car for your wife and baby, you'd be much better off buying privately or through a decent dealer (probably more expensive but you would get a warranty)
  A few things to look for on sites such as Autotrader......
  Check out the area of the seller, don't even bother if the car is pictured in a council/supermarket car park. Look for a car that is parked on, or outside a "nice" place. I'm sure that lots of people who live in horrible houses or flats are honest sellers, but why take the risk? And google-map the address, it may well be totally different to the place where the car was parked when photographed.
  If the ad contains a personal mobile number, google it. This will show if the number has been used in other car ads, showing if the seller is a dealer who is trying to sell his cars "privately", thereby avoiding his dealer responsibilities (warranties etc)
  Don't be embarrassed to give it a good test drive. Do an emergency stop, go through all of the gears and check the clutch, brakes and handbrake thoroughly. If the ad states "Full service history", have a good look at it. If you know anyone who is remotely mechanically-minded, take them along too.
  Check for white smoke coming out of the exhaust and check the oil filler cap for "mayonnaise"...signs of a dodgy head gasket.
  Have a good sniff inside the car and the boot, strong air fresheners can be masking any damp smells etc.
  Check that trims/doors line up and that lights, (both exterior and dash) and electronic windows work properly. And try to get one with a long MOT...check the certificate carefully for advisories, ask for old ones if they have them.
  And do be prepared for at least one repair bill in the first few months. People rarely sell a car that doesn't need anything doing to it!
• Thinking about some of the "crap" I've dumped on people to send to auction (knowingly, might I add) it really is a case of "you-pays-ya-money-ya-takes-ya-chance" - I also add these were clearly crap cars (150k+ no history, visibly rusty jobbies.)
  I'd say when the regulars suddenly stop bidding on something that looks like a bargain......
  There are some real bargains about on local Facebook selling sites I've found recently, infact I sold my last car (Ј3,500 Astra) via one, worked out great, local buyer (and I could have a scout around their Facebook page), didn't mess me about and I didn't have to pay for an advert.
  Something maybe worth checking out, a lot of people simply have no idea what there car is worth, there are some bargains to be had, bit like the old days of printed FreeAds again.
• thank u guys. I didn't know all of this.
  I thought Auction would be a great place to grab a bargain.
  I thought it'd be full of repos mainly.
  hmmmm I guess I have to rethink then.
• Some of the Manheim in particular make it very clear they do not want private buyers at their auctions, the buyers premium fees are totally astronomical.
  That and they Ghost bid you, they will spot you a mile off and if they work out you want the car, you will be going for a ride in to your bank balance.
  Unless you have a trade account, stay away, they will have you right over.
• Since nobody else has mentioned it yet - if you're buying privately, or from a backstreet dealer, get an HPI check. It takes time and money, but it could save you a fortune in the long run.
• Buying from an auction does have it's risks, especially if you don't know what to look and LISTEN for. Having said that, there is often a bargain to be had for those that do know what to look out for.
  I've bought a few cars at auction (Central Car Auctions in Glasgow) and my advice would be to avoid those with over 90K miles or no service history / MOT. Look out for excessive smoke, engine rattles, engine management lights on, illegal tyres, etc etc. Don't be afraid to ask the driver how the car feels - is the clutch bite high (indicating worn clutch), does it hesitate / backfire when revving (fueling issue / injectors / etc). You should also ask them to check that all the warning lights come on when the ignition is switched on and (importantly) go off after the car is started. You never know if a warning light bulb has been removed unless you check!
  Lots of these cars can just be trade in vehicles from the likes of Arnold Clark / Evans Halshaw - these may only need a little work to bring up to scratch. Just remember - Chances are they WILL require a little bit of TLC. I've had to replace Anti roll bar bushes on a Laguna and brake pads on a Ford Focus. However I saved in excess of Ј1500 for each of these cars by buying at auction instead of a dealer.
  If you're not all that confident, bring along someone who knows a thing or two about cars.
  Hope that helps.
  J
• The point about great photos can't be hammered home enough. I want to see all round the car and in it: I want it all in shot, I definitely don't want to see a remote car in the distance with your gravel drive or 23 wheely bins or other scrap in the foreground. If you park on the street or on a gloomy drive, definitely do get it out in the open, whether it is in a car park or industrial estate. It really shouldn't mater as the car will fill the shot, not the surroundings. I do admit to using the golf course for a mid-shot, for an appropriate coloured old Jag or whatever, but that's an exception.